View Full Version : New guy on the block (Rookie)
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 11:37 AM
I look forward to getting to know all of you here that have built these amazing pieces of engineering... I have posted some pictures of my current project. The next phase is the conversion and engine install, a Feel free to comment, give advise....
Thanks again.
Warlockchassis
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 12:19 PM
I would love to know how much of this conversion can be done yourself? I am an above average fabricator with unbelievable network of engineers, and car guys. I am not affraid to spend money for quality parts, or parts i couldnt fabricate for the sale price. Check out my project pictures, i have personally built this car from the ground up.
expuppy
06-10-2009, 01:06 PM
You can do virtually the entire conversion by yourself. I only needed help when mating the block to the bell housing. ( bell housing installs first and your drop the engine in and mate them up. had to get my wife to come sit on my engine and rock to jiggle the clutch and shaft to line up, would have made quite a picture, lol). I needed a second set of hands for all of the normal stuff ( bleeding brakes and clutch, etc). Other than that, its just me and my beer in the garage.
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 01:30 PM
Thanks for the info.I would also like to thank you for letting me drive your car at Nelson Ledges on friday.It got me motivated to complete mine. How many of the parts would you say i could build on my own?
expuppy
06-10-2009, 02:02 PM
hey guy, didnt recognize the nickname. sorry bout the drama in Porsche Hybrids Board. Anytime the room owner changes and there is a need to keep that secret, may not be the best of situations.
Anyway, your car. You can probably fab your own motor mounts. If you can adapt the back of the bell housing to bolt to a torque tube, that will be a big savings, cuz you wouldnt need the RH kit. I still say the RH kit is good because you get their support and help with it and fabbing stuff from scratch leaves room for errors. You could try the v8 with the stock radiator and see if it does ok? Buying headers from Sanderson maybe since i hear rumors that they have one that allows the steering shaft to clear on the drivers side. The other stuff is just assembly and disassembly. Keep me in the loop.
craighardy
06-10-2009, 03:39 PM
I also have the RH kit and I would recommend it. But if you have a welder and some time the mounts are doable. The bellhousing is from a C5 vette with a billet adapter custom made by RH. I'm sure that adapter could be made but again, RH has done all the R&D and it is guaranteed to fit. I bought one of the early kits before RH resolved the oil pan issue. I did end up modifying another pan instead of using the RH pan. In the end it's really up to the individual and their free time/budget.
Other than the kit part of the swap, I was able to do everything myself short of the exhaust.
Craig
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 05:19 PM
Craig,
Thanks for the comments. I would like to build all of my own parts. I have built untold numbers of ATV's, Sprint cars, dwarf cars, and drag cars over the years. I did see your photos of the oil pan, that looks very straight forward. Were the recessed areas the only thing that was modified on that? As for the Adapter for the bellhousing, what does it do exactly? Does it only mount the housing to torq tube? The motor mounts will be no problem, i have 3 types of CAD software, all sorts of material and a fab shop. I also have a capibility to build the headers, if i saw a set mounted. I would like be able to say i built my own parts.
Thanks again
Dale
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 05:27 PM
Expuppy,
Yea, that looked like a mess on the other board. I was like, WHAT in the world am i getting into. But i did take your advice and join the board, and now here i am.
Thanks again
Dale
craighardy
06-10-2009, 05:41 PM
Craig,
Thanks for the comments. I would like to build all of my own parts. I have built untold numbers of ATV's, Sprint cars, dwarf cars, and drag cars over the years. I did see your photos of the oil pan, that looks very straight forward. Were the recessed areas the only thing that was modified on that? As for the Adapter for the bellhousing, what does it do exactly? Does it only mount the housing to torq tube? The motor mounts will be no problem, i have 3 types of CAD software, all sorts of material and a fab shop. I also have a capibility to build the headers, if i saw a set mounted. I would like be able to say i built my own parts.
Thanks again
Dale
By the way, welcome to the board! Yes those recessed areas were the only modification needed. I used a Milodon pan that was made for 1st gen Camaro swaps, the part # is 697-30915. It can be found here: http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/30915/10002/-1
The adapter does just mount the housing to the TT. It also provides the correct spacing for the TT shaft and pilot bearing to play happy together.
It sounds like your setup really well at your shop! I say go for it!
Craig
Warlockchassis
06-10-2009, 06:44 PM
Thanks for link... Would you have the thickness of the adapter, or a picture of what it looks like?
Dale
expuppy
06-10-2009, 06:52 PM
you are always welcome to come down and photograph anything on my car except my wife, unless you are paying and then we can work something out.....
Warlockchassis
06-11-2009, 12:48 AM
That was funny! I will take you up on that offer, as soon as i get my 87 944s running ( next week)...
v8carreragts
06-12-2009, 10:43 PM
If you have the ability to fabricate, modify, engineer parts in general yo should be able to do everything yourself. I have built everything for mine myself. Not just the conversion parts but for the entire car.
I made: TT adapter plate, T/O bearing adapter, motor mounts, radiator mounts, a/c compressor-alternator-P/S pump brackets.
My car started out as a 1984 944. It is now looking like a 924 Carrera GTS. I grafted late 924 1/4 panels to it and added the Carrera flares, added the GTS bumper, am in the process of making the non opening headlights, moved the radiator forward, have 2 small condensers for the A/C to mount on each side to the bumper with small electric fans, modified the A/C so I will have dehumidified defrost, made a steel filler panel for the sunroof, converted the transaxle to a G31 (80 924 turbo aka snailshell) and ant this weekend will be finishing the rebuild and changing of the ring and pinion ratio, modified Jaguar front calipers to fit, added BMW/ATE hydroboost and will be fitting a turbo flush mounted windshield.
In 1980/81 I built a 77 924 with a Buick turbo Regal (carbureted) engine.
So you should be able to do this easily.
v8carreragts
06-12-2009, 10:48 PM
Just read a post I missed, I can post the drawing of the adapter plate I made and I believe I also have a copy that one of the so called bad members :D:D from the other board did on CAD of my adapter.
I used 1/2" aluminum plate. Now that I have everything apart I can take a picture of the adapter plate. Although this only will work for the GM manual trans bellhousing bolt pattern. (Muncie/ T-10, Saginaw and maybe some T-5's)
Warlockchassis
06-13-2009, 12:49 PM
Thanks for your input, i would love to see the pictures, and any drawings you would have. I have AutoCad 2004, And a Pro-E. if you would like you could email, or just post them. I also have built my complete car from the ground up. it started out as a clapped out 83, you can see my progress in the Photo Gallery here. I will be updating pictures later today.
warlockchassis@yahoo.com
v8carreragts
06-14-2009, 03:19 AM
Here are some pictures. If you are doing an LSx I'm not certian if this adapter will work. Mine is a SBC Gen I.
Warlockchassis
06-14-2009, 10:39 AM
Thanks for the photos. I like the Motor mounts the best. Does the Adapter have much to do with the drive shaft lenght into the PB?
v8carreragts
06-16-2009, 01:02 AM
The adapter adds 1/2" between the TT and the bellhousing. I needed to tap the drive shaft (in the TT) forwarsa about 1/4" to fully engage with the hub on the clutch disc.
I also have done a modification to the plate to center the TT better. The centering was determined by how well I laid out and drilled the holes for the pins. Since I did this by hand and used a drill press I was thinking that it easily could be off center. So I cut a 3 1/4" hole in the center and used a large bushing I made a while back when we were talking about different adapters. Basically, it is a bushing that fits inside of the TT (snuggly) ans extends to the bace of the bearing retainer bore that would be used to center the retainer on the front bearing on the trans it came off of. So now the bearing is as close to perfect alignment as possible. The adapter plate has the threads to attach to the TT and holes to attach to the bellhousing.
944-LT1
06-16-2009, 02:36 AM
I see some complex electrical conduit in there....WI building code up there the same as chicago? I had to do my uncles basement in conduit in chicago. Looks professional, good job. I know its a PITA.:mad:
v8carreragts
06-16-2009, 03:57 AM
WI? I live in the western Chicago suburbs.
Everything is in conduit. My garage didn't have any power when I bought the house. And it is about 45' from the house. The conduit in the garage was easy, getting it there under ground was a PITA!
944-LT1
06-16-2009, 06:25 AM
AH. Thought you were in WI.
You guys have stupid cows so now you have stupid codes. Hahahahaha.
Warlockchassis
06-16-2009, 12:05 PM
You are talking about the steel piece that is attached to the adapter plate in the picture, correct? I have full access to CNC mills and lathes, so i dont do alot of hand drilling....lol.. How do you move the drive shaft in the TT ?
v8carreragts
06-16-2009, 05:27 PM
You are talking about the steel piece that is attached to the adapter plate in the picture, correct?
Partly. I have since modified the assembly. The steel part (bearing retainer) is what is found on the front of a manual transmission, in this case a Super T-10. This part is what centers the transmission in the bellhousing.
Since the TT needs to be accurately indexed to this part so it is aligned correctly. The sleeve i made slips into the id of the TT housing and fits into the counter bore in the back of the bearing retainer.
v8carreragts
06-16-2009, 05:34 PM
You guys have stupid cows so now you have stupid codes. Hahahahaha.
We have an endless amount of stupid codes. For instance, my house is on a 1/2 acre lot but i can only have up to 850 sq. ft. of building for storage. I.E. garage, shed, etc. My lot has a street on the front and back so i wanted to put the driveway from one side to the other so you don't have to back up onto the street. Can't do it...their reason? You could park too many cars on it and it would look like a junkyard if everyone had too many cars. You also cannot park more than 4 cars in your driveway and garage overnight combined. You can't park on the street overnight where I live either.
Warlockchassis
06-16-2009, 07:46 PM
I would have to move to another part of town... Thank goodness my shop sits on 120 acres!
Vonov
06-21-2009, 09:59 PM
Warlockchassis, I see some really nice details on your car. I assume the cylindrical shape coming off the back side of the plate behind the brake disc is for hooking up a ventilation duct of some sort for the brakes?
Warlockchassis
06-22-2009, 03:52 AM
Thats correct. I am running brake ducts to the front rotors. I think it will help with the lack of power brakes.
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